| | Note this is a work in progress
For more information on building this kit see
RC Groups: Scratch Build Log: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=12679797&postcount=2818
RC Groups forum: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=964237
there is a ton of information here
| Note:
As of late I have been cutting in the cutouts for the 9 gram servo location as well as the slot for the motor mount. The images below do not shoe the cut outs for these items.
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step in construction
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Description |
Images
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1.
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start with the wing ... do the welders glue for the hinge as per Motorheads video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0uK8KlR-0I for both the wing and the elevator. |
This is now done on all my kits !
You can skip this setep
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2.
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then when that is dry glue in both spars |
This step is also done on all my kits except the foam only kit ... you might get to skip this step as well if you bought a kit with spars.
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| 3. | then glue up the flat fuse between the wing and tail, as well as the
nose. glue it up on a FLAT surface, don't forget the wax paper under the
glue joints. |  |
| 4. | If using a stick motor mount, cut your slot for the motor mount in the front nose piece at this
time ... best to do when the plane is still flat. Glue in the mount.
The side of the mount to the edge of the fuse should be about 2.205 thousandths or 2-13/64 of an inch from each side to center the mount.
Don't forget to modify the mount per Tallflyers tip ... you will thank your self later believe me I didn't do it on my first one and wish I did! Jammed the motor in tight when I nosed in, couldn't get the motor out. Cut the slot and don't make the same mistake I did.
I use a saw for this operation shown to the right. Cut the slot 5/8 or 3/4 longer than the slot from the factory mold.
Lightly sand the mount on all four sides to remove the shiny skin, this will make the glue grab hold better. Glue in on both sides, we will glue the top and bottom to the fuse at a later step.
Caution: Don't over tighten the screw when setting the motor in this mount. ONLY snug the screw tight enough to grip the bearing tube. If you tighten it up too tight you are going to strip the fine threads on the screw ... ask me how I know. "2 fingers tight on the screw driver not a full fist gorilla grip" ... I was talking to myself there!!!
There is now a spare screw and nut included with each mount just in case you drop or strip out the screw. ;)
Note: The Motor mount is now being installed with the screw lug towards the top of the plane. In the image at the right the lug should be pointing down. I just hang the lug over the edge of the table.
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Hand Saw for cutting slot longer in mount.
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| 4.125 | Image to right for clarification of tab alignment for reference only.
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| 4.25 | Next in the build comes the bottom fuse.
With the Carbon spars visible as well as the bevels on the hinges shown above in the last 3 images. You are now looking at the bottom of the airframe. Test fit the bottom fuse so you understand where all the tabs are supposed to fit into the horizontal fuse. The nose of the plane should line up together with the front of the bottom fuse. Notice the gap left behind the tab on the bottom fuse, this is where the tab goes for the top fuse. There are more
Examples to the right ----------------->>>>>>
apply glue to the bottom edge of the bottom
fuse and install in in the notch cutouts and brace it square and
straight. The front of the fuse and the flat fuse nose should line
up.
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| 4.5 | At this time you should install the 9 gram servo in its location. It needs to be glued in prior to the top fuse.
At this point you need to decide if you are going to use bracing in the tail of the fuse. If using bracing you should do it now while the build is upside down and still flat. I recommend Light Carbon Fiber truss work shown to the right. Others use EPP strips and some others don't brace the bottom at all. Note if you do not brace the bottom there will be some twist in the fuse during fast roll rates.
NOTE: when building truss work on the bottom of the plane the rudder control link should go on top instead of the bottom. With the way we build our control rods they get "boxed" in by the trusses on the left side of the plane.
Solution: if you are going to go with the rudder on the bottom is to put a V-Bend on both of the control rods as in the next image. This way you can get the control rod out for repairs as well as adjust the throws if needed.
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Click on image below for High Resolution Photo.
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| 5. | then comes the top fuse ...
Did you glue in the 9 gram servo? if not you should do it now.
Apply glue to the bottom edge of the top
fuse and install in in the notch cutouts and brace it square and
straight. The front of the fuse top and the flat fuse nose should line
up.
Soup cans, Coke cans work great for blocking and bracing the fuse square while it dries.
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| 6. | Tail Bump. The tail bump has been removed from the template and had been replaced by the Rudder cut out. If you plan on putting landing gear, you can glue on the tail bump now. Glue on the tail bump just ahead of the rudder hinge line.
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| 7 | Glue on the rudder same method as above ... I have used the split in
the dining room table to set the wing through. Best not to forget the
wax paper here for sure !!!
Scrap foam works well on the back side of the rudder when gluing this hinge. Just stick the pins straight through into the scrap foam to hold the hinge while it dries.
Important Note: use very little glue on the hinge. Watch the video to the right for welder hinge method.
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| 8. | mount the motor and put on the prop as well as the prop saver ... you need the weight out front to set the CG. | |
| 9. | Glue on the control horns per Tallflyers video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BRW-mpvgi8
I use welders glue here instead of hot glue.
Fold the control surface 90 degrees as shown to line up the light ply with the hinge line then glue the light ply in place approximately 3/4 to 1 inch from the inside edge as shown.
Drill a 5/64th hole in the plywood base 3/16 of an inch back from the front edge (the hinge line). This will place the 3 holes in the control , for the piano wire, horn right over the hing line. Place a drop of welders glue on the control horn and insert it through the plywood into the foam. A little adhesive squeeze out from under the control horn to hold in tin place.
Repeat for the Elevator and Rudder as well as the other Aileron.
Rudder control horn placement:
Some like to mount the rudder controls under the wing thus the control horn would be on the bottom of the rudder. This method will induce twist in the tail when actuating the rudder in high speed flight.
I however prefer to mount the rudder servo on top of the wing. Doing so will place the rudder control horn at the top of the elevator cutout in the vertical center of the rudder, on the hinge line.
The end result will be increased performance in knife edge flight as well as knife edge loops.
At this point you can go ahead and finish building the control rods for the ailerons.
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| 10. | Mark the CG on the bottom of the wing close to the fuse. CG is 7-3/4 back from the nose of the plane (foam nose)
I made a
balance stand out of a couple new pencils and blocks of wood. Place the
components on top of the fuse to achieve proper CG. Don't forget to lay a couple pieces of carbon fiber as well as piano wire ends on top as well.
This is an
important step, you want the plane to balance with out the battery.
That
way you can use different battery weights all located on the CG. Mark the component locations with a pencil for reference.
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| 11. | Start installing components, starting with the servos and control rods.
To build these I cut two 1/8th inch lengths of heat shrink and one 1-1/4
long. Slide the longer piece over the carbon fiber first. all the back
to the z-bend end to get it out of the way. Then slide on the 2 shorter
1/8th pieces over the carbon fiber. Then lay the carbon along side of
the piano wire that is installed in the servo. Slide the 2 ringlets of
heat shrink over the piano wire, one all the way up to the spring v bend
and the other where the piano wire ends.
Using a heat shield as to not melt the EPP, heat shrink the 2 ringlets
over the carbon fiber and piano wire. This holds the wire in place next
to the carbon fiber while you apply the glue to the joint. This should
leave about 1 inch spacing between the ringlets for gluing the piano
wire to the carbon fiber. Next insure that the control surface is
neutral and the servo centered.
The long piece of heat shrink is on the carbon fiber right? Don't forget
it like I have a few times.
Next run a small bead of glue over the carbon fiber piano wire
joint ( I use Welders here) then slide the longer heat shrink over the
glued joint ... spinning the heat shrink as you go as to spin/spread the
glue all the way around the carbon fiber piano wire joint. Slide the
heat shrink over the bands all the way up to the spring V bend. Wipe off
any excess glue and shrink the heat shrink starting from the carbon
fiber working your fay towards the servo. This will work more glue up to
the V bend spring part of the joint. USE CAUTION when getting close to
the spring V bend ... I have had a small flame up. This glue is
flammable but can be blown out with a puff of breath, easier than
blowing out a match of candle. Let the joint stand over night to cure
fully.
Another option people use is CA hit with a little kicker to speed up the
build. This is a good method but results in a more brittle joint
between the piano wire and carbon fiber ...
remember we are going for "bounce - ability" in all the joints so we can
spend more time in the air and less time in repairs.
Note: when hooking up the control linkage to the servo the wire goes in
through the top of the control horn and then flip the carbon fiber under
the control horn to the inside
of where the wire comes through the hole in the horn this locks the
connection secure but leaves it to come unhooked before stripping the
servo, in the event of a crash.
Rudder
| Image coming soon
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12. | Mount the Speed control and hook up the wires to the motor.
| More to come
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| 13. | Install the receiver and hook it up to the speed control (DO NOT install the Battery at this time) we don't want the motor firing up yet ... be patient. Run the antenna wire back to the tail where you want it in flight. Some leave it trailing behind the plane and others wrap the excess length around a drinking straw and glue the straw to the side of the fuse. Do not cut the antenna wire as it will reduce the effective range of the radio ad receiver.
| More to come
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| 14. | Return to the balance stand and finalize the location of the elevator and rudder servos adjusting their location with the carbon fiber control rods and piano wire ends to achieve final CG. Remark the locations for the final install of these components.
| More to come
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| 15. | Install the rudder and elevator servos in the marked locations build and install the control rods. Shrink the shrink wrap over the carbon fiber piano wire joint .
| More to come
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| 16. | Return once more to the balance stand and check CG, if you were patient in installing your components you should be very close to balance without the battery.
| More to come
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| 17. | Landing Gear see Landing gear in the How to section
| More to come
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18.
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For Increased Control Throws:
For More control throws you can go to dubro control horns.
The correct part numbers are:
HXT 500 servo takes Dubro #930
HXT 900 servo takes Dubro #932
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More to come |